We landed in southern France with plans to volunteer on a farm, but things didn’t exactly go as scheduled. A big volunteer turnover delayed our arrival by a few days, which left us with unexpected time to fill. A Google search for “hidden gem small towns near Toulouse” led me to Limoux, and within an hour we’d booked a cute little apartment for five nights.

It started out a little bumpy—our host gave us the wrong code for the key box, and we found ourselves waiting in 41°C heat for an hour and a half before he finally responded. A less-than-ideal welcome, but once inside we discovered the apartment was cool and cozy despite the lack of air conditioning.

Limoux turned out to be a delightful find. Unlike London’s throngs of tourists, here we practically had the place to ourselves. Locals were warm and welcoming—from a Parisian woman we chatted with at the bus stop to our super-helpful bus driver—and I’ve never understood the stereotype of “rude French.” In our experience, people have been nothing but kind.

We explored two quirky museums. The first was a family-run puppet museum, with automated figures that teetered between whimsical and creepy. Instead of a slick gift shop at the end, we were ushered into a chaotic studio littered with beer bottles, cigarette butts, and half-finished props. Outside, we sipped beers served by the owner’s 10-year-old daughter, kittens curled up on a shabby couch beside us. It was wonderful and unpretentious.

 The second museum focused on the history of printing—from Gutenberg presses to Gestetners like the ones I remember from elementary school. Admission was free, and it was just around the corner from our apartment. I loved how Limoux balanced eccentricity with charm.

From Limoux we headed to Carcassonne, a medieval city famous for its castle and fortified walls. The baggage storage apps were being annoyingly glitchy, so we gave up and spent the afternoon people-watching at a public fountain, killing time before check-in. The scene was both comic and chaotic: dogs’ balls being scrubbed down, women hiking up skirts to cool off in the spray, kids puking from the heat, and others running around in bathing suits as if it were a splash park.

 We eventually toured the Château and ramparts, but honestly, wandering the walled town itself—where people still live—was just as interesting. After striking out on our search for an affordable vegetarian crepe, we gave up, returned to our apartment, and enjoyed the simple luxury of a snack, a cold shower, and a nap. Sometimes travel is less about getting what you want and more about going with the flow.

Before the farm, we made a quick stop in Toulouse. The city pleasantly surprised us with its energy: vibrant streets, a delicious vegetarian buffet restaurant, and plenty of unexpected charm. The palace (?) was closed due to electrical issues, but wandering the streets more than made up for it.

Finally, we made it to the farm. Our home for the month was an old RV on blocks, tucked away on a hippie-style, mostly off-grid farm. My first tasks were looking after an elderly mare who required soaked mash three times a day, and rejuvenating an abandoned outdoor kitchen that had become a spider-infested storage shed.

Unfortunately, a week in, I re-injured my back and spent much of the time resting and recovering, painting portraits of the farm animals instead—dogs, horses, and goats all found their way into my sketchbook. I felt guilty about not being able to do more, but the community was kind and supportive.

 Randy rolled up his sleeves and tackled the farm’s extension cords. He installed a new hub and buried cables to bring order to the chaos of wires feeding the caravans, yurts, and cabins. Practical, unglamorous, but vital work.

Not everything was work. On hot days, we cooled off in the nearby river. I had a flashback to childhood summers—running around in a swimsuit, jumping into the water without a care in the world. One evening, we were invited to a backyard concert beneath the castle in Foix. A barefoot woman sang soulful songs in French while her sister drank too much and collapsed in the street outside the bar, quickly dusted off by friends who didn’t seem to mind. We laughed, drank, and shared stories with locals who proudly recommended their favourite hidden spots.

 We also connected deeply with other volunteers: a young man from Madrid, a young German woman, and a fun kind-hearted Brit who became our chauffeur for a couple of day trips. Together we hunted for a natural hot spring (a “20-minute walk” that took over two hours), where the sulfhur tarnished my silver puzzle ring, and later explored the prehistoric cave paintings at Niaux. Scrambling 800 meters across slippery stones into the darkness to stand before 17,000-year-old art was humbling—like feeling the pulse of humanity across the ages.

Before we knew it, our month on the farm was over. My back was less tender, my sketchbook fuller, and our friendships expanded. France had given us a blend of chaos, kindness, quirkiness, and connection. With grateful hearts and a little ennui, we packed our bags once again—this time bound for Portugal.

Getting around: Buses and trains are affordable and efficient, but smaller towns may have limited service. The French love their national strikes — keep an eye on the news for cancellations.

Heat: Summers can be scorching—rivers and public pools are your best friends. Bring a refillable water bottle and don’t be shy about joining locals cooling off in public fountains (just don’t let the water get in your mouth!)

Food: Vegetarians, brace yourselves. Meat-heavy menus are the norm, so having access to a kitchen is a big help. Bigger cities like Toulouse or touristy centres are your best bet for variety.

Museums: France excels at quirky small-town museums—many are family-run and inexpensive (or free). Keep an eye out for the unexpected.

Accommodation: Small apartments in lesser-known towns are often affordable, but confirm details like check-in codes ahead of time. Waiting outside in the heat is no fun.

Community: Volunteering (via Workaway or WOOFing) is a great way to meet locals, connect with other travellers, and discover off-the-beaten-path experiences.

Day trips: If you can, visit the prehistoric caves in the region. Book a day or two ahead, and if possible, find an English-language tour for the full experience.

Trainline: Train app for Europe

Carcassonne Castle and Ramparts

Printing museum in Limoux

Puppet museum in Limoux

Workaway

Wwoofing (Working on Organic Farms)

Cave in Niaux