Our arrival in Nepal was equal parts fascinating and overwhelming. Kathmandu’s streets were a nonstop deluge of honking motorbikes, narrow alleys, and people trying to sell us hash. Amid the chaos, we visited a few working temples, which felt like a calm voice in a noisy room. After one day, we knew we needed a break from the city.

We escaped to a quiet family-run guesthouse overlooking Begnas Lake for a couple weeks. Life slowed down completely—writing, painting, eating delicious homecooked food, and waiting for the clouds to lift so we could see the Himalayas. We caught the occasional glimpse of the Annapurna Range, just the tippy-tops, which was enough to keep us filled with anticipation.

A jungle walk around the lake led to a surprise encounter with a troupe of rhesus macaques leaping around the treetops, watching us curiously. We also discovered small local restaurants serving meals for pocket change, always run by kind families who made us feel welcome. We helped one create a “Nepali quesadilla” cooked with chapati because they had run out of bread.

We visited a small temple where a family was having a little picnic, and the girls ran up and asked if we wanted to try the ‘swing’, a giant creaking behemoth that threatened chaos at every push. After which they excitedly asked if we had any chocolate, and Randy being the softie he is, went to the little store close by and bought them some fake Oreos. On another warm day, we crossed a suspension bridge over Rupa Lake, and returned several times to the local “Buddha Restaurant,” where ingredients came straight from the garden. Being here reminded us how disconnected from the land we have become.

At the guest-house, we joined a bon voyage celebration for a group of motorcycle-riding mamas—complete with tikas and flower garlands. I was so impressed with some of the women, as they ranged in age (75) and riding levels. We also walked down the hill to town to buy a replacement toilet seat (I accidentally broke ours). On the way, we witnessed a monkey fight, which felt very on-brand for Nepal.

The guesthouse owners quickly became like a second family. They taught us some Nepali phrases and were quick to correct us on our pronunciation (with a smile of course.) When I showed up one morning to film them for a project I’m working on, they surprised us by bringing out some traditional wedding-style outfits so we could have our own photo shoot with them! Our last night included a farewell dinner and dance party with both Nepali and western music, as we took turns being DJ. Leaving was harder than expected, but we were excited at the possbility of seeing some pretty epic wildlife at our next destination, Chitwan National Park.

In Chitwan National Park, the adventure continued. On the way to the day-long jungle hike, we encountered a local rhino who didn’t appreciate our Jeep and half-heartedly attempted to ram it as we drove by. We spent the night in a jungle tower overlooking the river — no tigers, but we spotted crocodiles, a couple of rhinos, and a civet cat. Sunrise from the tower was unforgettable.

Before leaving Nepal, we returned to Kathmandu for one last stretch—and I volunteered with a fledgeling University of Nepal. They don’t have a campus yet and are currently operating out of a smoky building that was damaged in the recent riots and government unrest.

I held a workshop for staff and students on how to create promotional videos, and I filmed interviews with the university administration for a positioning video I’ll be producing over the coming months. It’s challenging to create something for an institution that is still more vision than reality, but it felt meaningful to help them take their first steps toward establishing their identity.

Our final days were spent visiting the Boudha Stupa, catching up with friends we’d met earlier, and soaking in the last bits of Kathmandu’s energy. Nepal surprised us at every turn—with its hospitality, its scenery, and its spirit. We are forever grateful for the people and places that made this month so memorable.

Randy and I are already planning our return trip. There is so much more to see.